Sewer problems are disruptive as it is. Repair them shouldn’t destroy your yard, driveway, mature plantings or slab. TrenchFree provides trenchless sewer solutions designed to restore flow with minimal digging.
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Trenchless Sewer Repair (targeted fixes without extensive excavation)
Sewer Line Replacement (when the pipe is beyond repair)
Pipe Bursting (replacement with minimal access points)
Pipelining (restore the pipe from the inside)
Section CTA: Schedule Trenchless Sewer Service Near You
Slow drains in multiple fixtures, frequent backups, sewage odors, gurgling toilets, soggy/green patches in the yard or sinkholes are some common red flags.
Look for persistent sewer smells, wet spots in the yard when it hasn’t rained, moldy odors, repeated clogs. A camera inspection by TrenchFree can determine if there are cracks, offsets or root intrusion.
Aging pipe materials (clay/cast iron/composite), ground shifting, corrosion, heavy surface loads, construction damage and long-term root intrusion are among the common causes.
Yes. Roots seek moisture and can enter through joints or cracks, expand inside the pipe and cause blockages or structural damage.
Generally no, if the failure is from wear and tear or maintenance-related problems. Many carriers offer service line coverage, an add-on that may cover excavation, buried utility line repairs or replacement.
Costs vary by depth/access and method. Trenchless repairs like pipe lining often price per foot and can reduce landscape or driveway restoration costs.
National homeowner estimates commonly fall into a broad range depending on length/material/location; many sources report per-linear-foot pricing and wide totals.
Sometimes the pipe work can be similar per foot, but trenchless can be cheaper overall when you avoid major surface restoration (concrete, landscaping, hardscape).
A set of methods that fix/replace underground sewer pipe using small access pits instead of a continuous open trench—typically pipe lining (CIPP) or pipe bursting.
Many residential jobs can be completed in 1–2 days depending on cleaning needs, access and whether it’s lining or full replacement.
A trenchless rehab method in which a resin-saturated liner is installed inside the existing pipe and cured to form a new “pipe within a pipe.”
Many specs and industry guidelines design CIPP for 50+ years when properly installed and specified.
It can be a long-term solution (often designed for decades), but success depends on correct sizing, prep/cleaning, host-pipe condition and installation quality.
A trenchless replacement method that fractures the old pipe outward while pulling a new pipe (often HDPE) into place behind it.
Often yes—trenchless lining or bursting usually needs only small access points (a cleanout or entry pit), not a full trench.
Depth varies by local grade, building plumbing layout and where the main is located—there’s no single universal depth. Always locate utilities before digging.
Traditional open-cut can take several days (plus restoration). Trenchless replacement is usually faster because property owners avoid large excavation and surface repair.
A capped access point (often PVC with a threaded cap) allows cleaning/camera inspection; commonly near the foundation or yard line, sometimes by the sidewalk/property line.
You can often do a spot repair or sectional lining if the damage is localized—replacement is recommended when the pipe has widespread failure.
Older homes often have clay or cast iron; newer installs commonly use PVC. Material affects which repair method makes sense.
Common methods include camera inspection (CCTV), locating transmitter “sondes,” cleanout-to-main tracing, and sometimes leak detection or hydro-excavation potholing for verification.
It can—if the pipe is fragile, heavily corroded or already cracked. Hydro jetting could seriously damage cast-iron or clay pipes in older homes. Many pros camera-inspect first to confirm the line can handle jetting.
Drain lines run from fixtures to the home’s main drain; the sewer lateral carries wastewater from the home to the municipal main (or septic).
In many areas, the owner is responsible for the private lateral up to a connection point; the city handles the public main. Rules vary, so verify with your local utility or consult with a qualified firm who can check with your local agency.
